Day 4 - July 7
Overcast, 15C

During the night, the wind died a bit and we awoke a few times to hear some precipitation falling on the tent walls. It sounded more like sleet or snow than rain, but nobody was motivated enough to give up a warm sleeping bag to satisfy curiosity. Whatever came down overnight was gone by the time we got out of the tents in the morning. The weather still isn't great, but its a big improvement over yesterday. We have a quick breakfast and get underway promptly. A short distance down the river, we stop at a rapid to do some filming. Brendan and I go down first to get set up. As I look upstream to signal Deb, a group of six paddlers come around the bend. They seem in a hurry and don't stop to talk. We'd noticed bits of colour on some rocks where canoes had bumped into them, but we weren't really expecting to see anyone on the Clarke.

The weather has eased up a bit and we stop for lunch at the base of a rapid for lunch. The kids get out their fishing gear while Deb rummages in the canoe for the lunch bag. In no time at all, there are enough grayling lined up on the shore to make us loose interest in the lunch bag. Deb helps the kids fillet the fish this time and in no time at all, the frying pan is out and lunch is served.

As we head farther downstream, the river widens again and sand dunes replace the steep rock canyon walls. We stop at a prominent bend in the river with a nice beach area, a fishing hole and a sand cliff on the opposite shore. The bugs are really bad for the first time and we pitch the dining tent to cook and eat. The kids catch and release quite a few fish, the largest was a 10 lb., 27 inch arctic char.

The permafrost plays an important role in the creation of the sand cliffs. As the sun moves across the sky, it warms the underlying sand supporting the cliff and we're constantly surprised by thunderous crashes as sections of the cliff crumble into the river below. As the ice melts to water and the sand can no longer support the weight and it slips down suddenly with no warning. The frequency lessens somewhat overnight, but we all woke several time with a start.
Brendan with improves his filleting technique.

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